What Does Lent Have to Do With Crispy Fish Sandwiches?

Why fast-food restaurants observe seafood season — and not other religious holidays

According to Wendy’s, it’s “seafood season.” That means the chain’s limited-time-only Crispy Panko Fish Sandwich is widely available from now until April 20. Wendy’s can hedge, but you might have figured out that since its final day on the menu is Easter Sunday, this is a sandwich designed to cater to those celebrating Lent, a Christian observance — mostly but not exclusively practiced by Catholics — in which many practitioners abstain from meat (which in Catholicism includes mammals and poultry, though not fish), among other things.

Ever since Lou Groen created the Filet-O-Fish in 1962 to ensure the heavily Catholic clientele at his Cincinnati McDonald’s had something to eat during Lent, many beef-centric fast-food restaurants have offered some sort of limited edition seafood option to cater to Americans who observe. This year, Del Taco is offering three seafood specials through April 23, which Del Taco president Tom Rose calls “the perfect combo for Lent season.” Arby’s has a “limited time” menu of crispy fish sandwiches. And though Popeye’s serves seafood year round, it’s offering a shrimp tacklebox and a fried flounder sandwich for Lent.

While fast-food restaurants may offer spider-shaped doughnuts for Halloween or pink drinks for Valentine’s Day, Lent specials stand apart in that they revolve around the traditional dietary restrictions of the observance. Many practitioners either eat fish on Fridays during Lent, or replace meat with fish for the entire time. Lent does not involve an outright fast, nor is it a one-day-only observance, which allows restaurants to design a specific menu around the food observers eat throughout the weeks-long period.

It’s difficult to estimate just how many Americans observe Lent. A 2021 YouGov survey reported 16 percent, but it could be closer to a quarter. A recent Gallup poll says that while church attendance and membership is declining, 68 percent of Americans identify as Christians. Only 22 percent are Catholic, which is the same number of Americans who say they don’t identify with a religion at all. About 7 percent of Americans identify as all other religions, including Jewish, Muslim, and Buddhist. And a 2015 poll says that of practicing Catholics, only 47 percent gave up something for Lent.

But culturally — even the Mardi Gras excess of Fat Tuesday is traditionally a last hurrah for the upcoming season of moderation — the spectre of Lent seems to extend beyond the devout practitioners. According to Chowhound, of the 300 million Filet-O-Fish sandwiches McDonald’s sells every year, about 75 million are sold during the 40 days of Lent.

It’s enough for fast-food restaurants to take notice. “We started serving seafood to expand our menu offerings beyond chicken, cater to regional tastes, and appeal to guests looking for alternative protein options, especially during Lent, when many people avoid eating meat,” Popeyes told Eater. Shrimp and catfish were also “a natural fit, aligning with our brand’s Southern-inspired flavors and heritage.”

Of course, not everyone observes Lent by eating fast-food flounder, or by giving up meat, either on Fridays or altogether. The Washington Post reported in 2020 that many millennials are giving up things like social media or alcohol, starting a workout challenge, or trying to cultivate more socially-conscious habits. “There is a tendency to think about Lent in terms of ‘giving up’ things, and at its worst this can just be a religious gloss on American diet culture,” says Mark Popham, who grew up eating fried fish during Lent at Moby Dick. Now, he attends Episcopalian church, and continues to observe Lent by doing things like carrying Narcan or cash to give out to those who might need it.

However, he does still eat fast-food fried fish when it’s on offer, which he says feels like part of the overall goal of reconsidering the choices one makes in everyday life. “It doesn’t change much to have a Filet-O-Fish instead of a Big Mac, but it reminds you of the other changes you could be making.”

Though not every Christian or Catholic observes Lent, most polls don’t take into account those who were raised observing who may still culturally enjoy more springtime seafood offerings even if they’re not active members of the church, the same way it might feel nice to eat turkey around Thanksgiving even if you want no part in celebrating colonialism. Pat Murphy describes themself as a “very lapsed Catholic,” and lives in Wisconsin where fish fries are a year-round occurrence, though they certainly become more popular during Lent. “I have a definite affinity for fish on Fridays which is heightened by the fact that it’s no longer a weird-feeling moral obligation. It feels kind of nostalgic to get fish on Fridays. Like visiting home when you don’t have to live there anymore and haven’t for a long while.”

You also don’t have to grow up with fried fish Fridays to enjoy the fast-food specials this time of year. Zach Knowlton grew up relatively secular in a heavily Catholic town, but began observing a version of Lent in his 20s. “It’s a cultural connection thing, doing it makes me feel a little closer to home, despite not growing up with the practice,” he says. But mostly, he just loves fast-food fish sandwiches, and looks forward to “seafood season” every year. “We as a society don’t get enough chances to consume tartar sauce! They have such a different texture from a burger or chicken sandwich,” he says. “Plus, aside from McDonald’s, they are an LTO [Limited Time Offer], and I am the world’s biggest sucker for a fast-food LTO.”

Who isn’t? Americans love pumpkin spice latte season and when the McRib is back. Lent is now just another limited time. But if limited-time opportunities can be fueled by religious-fueled family memories, where are the Dunkin’ Rosh Hashanah menus full of honey and apples, or Starbucks’ Durga Puja drinks?

Murphy says that during Lent, it “feels weird that no one meaningfully acknowledges that it’s a religious, or at least religion-adjacent thing.” And watching everyone pack into fast-food restaurants for fried fish just makes them realize how few other holidays or cultures are given the same treatment. “I feel excited about it every year, but also melancholy that we’re only shining a spotlight on this one corner of our rich tapestry of community,” they say.

When you do see specials for other holidays, it’s usually from chains that are part of those communities. Moka & Co., a Yemeni coffee shop with locations in New York, Michigan, and Kentucky, keeps special hours for Ramadan, so customers can enjoy their drinks after fasting. Halal Guys also offers discounts during Ramadan for family meals. And this past winter, Krispy Kreme partnered with Lodge Bread to create sufganiyot for Hannukah, though only at Lodge locations in California.

It’s not like one needs to derive validation of one’s identity from the business decisions of fast-food restaurants, who are more likely to serve pink and green snacks in honor of Wicked than anything else. But it would be nice if a wider variety of cultures were celebrated. However, Wendy’s insistence on calling it “seafood season” over Lent may be a sign that things may, too slowly, be changing. “Seafood season” is something everyone can participate in, not just Christians. “I think after 1700 years of cultural hegemony Christians could do with taking the back seat for a few millennia,” says Popham. Still, Dunkin’ is missing a real opportunity to run some Eid specials.